MADAGASCAR 31 October–20 November 2009 Leaders: Jan Pienaar and Vaughan Ashby

Madagascar's uniqueness is legendary, and is nowhere better reflected than in its birds. Of the 270 species recorded on the island, no fewer than 140 are endemic or near-endemic, and these special birds will form the focus of our tour. But the wonder of Madagascar extends well beyond its avifauna, and we will not neglect the amazing lemurs, colourful chameleons and fascinating flora of this "laboratory of evolution."

Day 1 Overnight flight from London.

Day 2 We arrive in the bustling capital of Antananarivo (or "Tana") and transfer to our hotel in the heart of the city for an overnight stay. Travelling from the airport into the city, one cannot help being struck by the uniqueness of the Malagasy culture (a strange mix of African and Asian influences), reflected in the landscape and architecture. En route to our hotel, we will make our first birding stop at Lac Alarobia. This private sanctuary within the city protects large numbers of ducks and egrets from persecution. In the evenings, the small lake literally teems with waterfowl. Large numbers of White-faced Duck and Red-billed Teal should be seen, usually accompanied by smaller numbers of Hottentot Teal, Knob-billed and Fulvous Ducks and possibly the very rare Meller's Duck. A fantastic assortment of egrets occurs in the sanctuary and includes a few splendid Madagascar Squacco Herons and Dimorphic Egrets. Mascarene Martin is common overhead, and we will be watching in adjacent areas for more endemics, which may include Madagascar Kestrel, Madagascar Coucal, Madagascar Swift, Madagascar Wagtail, Madagascar White-eye, Madagascar Mannikin and Madagascar Red Fody.

Day 3 We depart early for the drive eastwards across the Highland Plateau to the famous reserve of Perinet (also known as Analamazaotra). A few widespread, open-country birds tolerant of degraded habitats persist in the mosaic of rice paddies, grassy pastures and woodland at the roadside. Species we may find during roadside stops include Lesser Vasa Parrot, Crested Drongo, Madagascar Bulbul, Madagascar Cisticola, Madagascar Brush Warbler and Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher. Our accommodation for the next five nights is a delightful hotel overlooking a lake at the edge of the forest reserve. Being so close to Perinet means that wildlife is often right on our doorstep. Fluorescent green day geckos scuttle on the outside walls of our chalets, Madagascar Wagtails flit along the walkways and, in the evenings, we may be serenaded by the beautiful songs of the world's largest species of lemur, the Indri. On a trip by the leader in 2001, Madagascar Crested Ibis were found feeding on the hotel lawns!

Days 4–5 The moist rainforest cloaking Madagascar's eastern escarpment protects the richest assemblage of birds on the island, including many that are rare or poorly known. Over 100 of these have been recorded from within the small reserve of Perinet, and we will search for Madagascar Flufftail, the elusive Madagascar Wood Rail, Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Greater Vasa Parrot, Madagascar Cuckoo, Madagascar Spinetail, Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher, Madagascar Cuckoo-shrike, Ward's Flycatcher, Tylas Vanga, Madagascar Starling, Long-billed and Spectacled Greenbuls, White-throated Oxylabes, Nelicourvi Weaver and Souimanga Sunbird. Amongst the most sought-after of Madagascar's birds are those of the five families endemic to the Malagasy region: the peculiar mesites, exquisite ground-rollers, Cuckoo-roller, the asities and the vangas. Some of these, such as the ubiquitous Madagascar Cuckoo-roller, Pitta-like Ground-roller, Common Sunbird Asity and a number of the vangas, are reasonably common and encountered regularly, whilst most of the others remain rare, local or elusive. We will make a special effort to locate as many representatives of these charismatic families as possible, as well as those of the endemic subfamily, the couas. In the forested hills around Perinet we hope to find the localised Red-fronted and Blue Couas, Velvet Asity and flocks of vangas, which may include White-headed, Chabert's, Madagascar Blue, Red-tailed, Hook-billed, Pollen's, or the bizarre Nuthatch Vanga. If we are lucky, we may locate some of Perinet's forest rarities such as Dusky Greenbul or Red-tailed Newtonia.

Highland marshes around the borders of the reserve support some of the most endangered birds on the island, including Slender-billed Flufftail. We will visit an area where the species has been found in the past, although we would have to be very fortunate to see this extremely rare rallid. Madagascar Rail, Madagascar Snipe and Madagascar Swamp Warbler are more likely, and we may also find Madagascar Partridge and Madagascar Buttonquail in scrubby areas surrounding the wetland. Whilst in the Perinet area, we will make a special effort to see the reserve's most famous residents: the huge, singing lemurs known as Indri. A journey in search of these magnificent creatures is on a par with gorilla-trekking in the mountain forests of Uganda, and, if we are fortunate, we will be treated to a close encounter with a family group. Other lemurs we hope to see on this walk are Common Brown and Grey Bamboo Lemurs and we will also search known roosting sites for the nocturnal, but inquisitive, Small-toothed Sportive Lemur. Another "must see" member of the island's fauna is the Giraffe-necked Weevil, a tiny red and black insect named for its unusually proportioned neck! In the evenings we will embark on night walks into the reserve. Nocturnal outings are a thrilling, and indeed essential, part of any trip to Madagascar, and Perinet is one of the best sites to search for the island's night birds. Specialities here include Madagascar Long-eared Owl, Rainforest Scops-owl and both Madagascar Nightjar and the rare and little-known Collared Nightjar (the latter seen on the nest during a previous trip by the leader).

Whilst seeing these birds will be the focus of our walks, we will not neglect the immense variety of non-avian life that emerges after dark. Although Madagascar is famous for the spectacular lemurs that have adapted to a daytime existence, a number of species of these primitive primates remain denizens of the night. We will search for, and should find, Eastern Woolly, Greater Dwarf and the diminutive Brown Mouse Lemurs, and may also encounter some of Madagascar's other evolutionary masterpieces such as the bizarre Lowland Streaked Tenrec. The island's reptile and amphibian fauna is equally fascinating, and even the most hardened birder could not fail to be impressed by the plethora of colourful and bizarre frogs, chameleons and geckos to be seen on an evening's stroll through the rainforest. In particular, we will search for the giant Parson's Chameleon and two species of eccentric leaf-tailed gecko: the huge Uroplatus fimbriatus and the aptly named Uroplatus phantasticus.

Days 6–7 Mantadia National Park protects a large expanse of primary forest at a somewhat higher altitude. Although it has been opened to the public only recently, Mantadia is now an essential destination on any birding trip to Madagascar, having rapidly gained a reputation as an excellent site for a handful of highly sought-after forest birds. Not least amongst these are a number of species formerly considered to be restricted to the poorly accessible rainforests of the far north-east including Red-breasted Coua and Scaly Ground-roller. We will concentrate on finding these and also more widespread, yet no less desirable, forest birds including Madagascar Blue Pigeon, Rufous-headed and Short-legged Ground-rollers, Crossley's Babbler, Common and Dark Newtonias, Wedge-tailed, Green, Stripe-throated and Common Jeries, the newly described Cryptic Warbler and Forest Fody. Madagascar Serpent-eagle, Madagascar Red Owl and the magnificent Helmet Vanga are on the list, but we would have to be very lucky to find any of these rare species. Other attractions in this park include the vocal Black-and-White Ruffed Lemur, the elusive Diademed Sifaka (considered by many to be the world's most beautiful lemur) and small numbers of Painted Mantella, a spectacularly coloured forest frog. Much of the birding in Mantadia NP can be enjoyed from the wide road that runs up into the reserve, although seeing the skulkers of the forest understorey will require that we take to the steep, and at times slippery, trails. Maromiza is a currently unprotected forest lying on a ridge top overlooking Perinet. We will make an early morning excursion to this site, which will provide us with our best chances of finding Madagascar Cuckoo-falcon, Forest Rock-thrush, Common Sunbird Asity, Dark Newtonia, Rufous-headed Ground-roller, Cryptic Warbler and Brown Emutail. The birding here is pleasurable, along reasonably flat trails, despite the fact that it accesses notoriously difficult ridge-top forest.

Day 8 After a final early morning's birding in the Perinet area, we will return to Tana to make a connecting flight to the south-western city of Tulear. Upon arrival, we will visit the harbour, where we will scan the mudflats for waders and terns, sometimes including Lesser Crested and Saunders's Terns, Greater and Mongolian Sandplovers, Terek Sandpiper and the peculiar Crab Plover. Thereafter, we will transfer to our hotel in the small resort of Ifaty for a two-night stay. Although the distance is only 25km, the journey is slow and arduous, due to the very poor condition of the road. We will stop en route to bird some wetlands and salt pans, which may hold numbers of Greater Flamingo, Black-necked Stilt, Kittlitz's Plover, assorted migratory waders and, if we are very fortunate, Madagascar Harrier.

Day 9 Much has been written about the strange Didierea woodland, or "Spiny Forest", behind Ifaty, but this in no way lessens the feeling of awe as one sets foot in this botanical wonderland. Venturing out at dawn, before the day's heat, we will stroll amongst the myriad multi-stemmed succulents, squat Baobab trees and thorny scrub in search of such spectacular endemics as Banded Kestrel, Running and Green-capped Couas, Archbold's Newtonia, Thamnornis, Subdesert Brush Warbler and Lafresnaye's Vanga. Two very special birds here are the near-mythical Subdesert Mesite, which we may find adopting its strange, cryptic posture on a thorny branch, and the Long-tailed Ground-roller, an elusive ground dweller best located by its low, hooting call. Flocks of noisy Sickle-billed Vangas are another feature of this bizarre landscape. As the day warms up, so the reptile activity increases. We should see numerous Three-eyed Lizards and may be lucky enough to find a beautiful Spider Tortoise or rare Dumeril's Boa. The tropical ocean off Ifaty teems with marine life and we will have some time to don masks and snorkels and appreciate the myriad colours of a coral reef, or relax in the warm shallows in front of our hotel. An optional afternoon excursion will be taken to bird some wetlands to the south of Ifaty, where previous tours by the leader have found Greater Painted-snipe, Little Bittern, Baillon's Crake and, most excitingly, another small rallid, which may represent a species only known from subfossil records.

Day 10 After another early morning trip into the Spiny Desert, we will head southwards to our lodge for the next two nights: the La Mangrove on the San Augustin Road. The lodge is idyllically situated overlooking the calm waters of the Mozambique Channel and we may find a variety of waders, or even a White-throated Rail, feeding on the edge of the mangroves. Target birds in this area include two species with highly restricted ranges: Verreaux's Coua and the recently discovered Red-shouldered Vanga. Reptile life is particularly rich, and we should find large Zonosaurus plated lizards whilst exploring the surrounding areas. We will also search for the elusive Madagascar Sandgrouse.

Day 11 This morning we board motorised launches for an excursion to the tropical islet of Nosy Ve for a picnic lunch. The main attraction of the island is its colony of Red-tailed Tropicbirds, but we may also find Crab Plovers roosting on the sandbars here and we have a chance to snorkel on the pristine coral reef just offshore. We will return to La Mangrove in the afternoon, with another birding stop-off on the mainland to search for Humblot's Heron and the localised Littoral Rock-thrush.

Day 12 After a final search for any missing target birds in the Tulear area, we will take a short flight to Fort Dauphin (Toliagnaro), in the south-eastern corner of the island. Upon arrival we will transfer directly to the world-famous private lemur reserve of Berenty. The 2.5-hour drive takes us from the picturesque town of Fort Dauphin, through well-watered valleys packed with paddyfields, into the rain shadow of the Andohahela Mountains. As we near Berenty, the natural habitat is replaced by extensive sisal plantations stretching as far as the eye can see. We shall venture out in the evening in search of Torotoroka Scops-owl and the impressive White-browed Owl, but may also encounter a host of other nocturnal creatures such as the strange Greater Hedgehog Tenrec and several species of attractive gecko (including Big-headed Gecko and Fish-scaled Gecko).

Day 13 Berenty is justly famous for its lemurs, not only because its deciduous woodland is home to five species of these primitive primates, but also for the ease with which they may be seen and appreciated in the wild. Red-fronted Brown Lemurs occur in large numbers during the day, and both White-footed Sportive and Grey Mouse Lemurs are encountered regularly on night walks through the reserve, though the undoubted favourites are the Ring-tailed Lemurs and Verreaux's Sifakas. Spending time with groups of these gentle creatures will certainly be one of the highlights of our Malagasy adventure. A further mammalian highlight of Berenty is visiting the Madagascar Flying Fox roost, where about 300 of these animals, sporting 1.25 metre wingspans, spend their day squabbling and presumably sleeping. Although we should already have seen most of the birds of this area, we will be on the lookout for the numerous Giant Couas that stroll along the well-cleared paths through the woodland. Other birds we may find here are Reed Cormorant, Madagascar Sparrowhawk and Frances's Goshawk, Helmeted Guineafowl, Madagascar Sandgrouse, Bat Hawk (very rare in Madagascar) and Alpine Swift.

Day 14 We will have a final morning to enjoy and photograph the wildlife in Berenty and visit the well-presented local museum, which displays one of the few complete Elephant Bird eggs in the world. In the afternoon we will transfer back to Fort Dauphin for an overnight stay.

Day 15 Steep headlands near Fort Dauphin are often good for sea-watching. Depending upon the weather, we may find Yellow-nosed Albatross, Wedge-tailed and Cory's Shearwaters, frigatebirds, Kelp Gull (the Madagascar form was recently assigned full specific status Larus melisandae) and Greater Crested Tern, as well as Indian Ocean Bottle-nosed Dolphin and Humpback Whale. We then board our flight back to Tana for an overnight stay. After check-in, we will visit the Tsimbazaza Zoo, with its lemur-breeding station and interesting museum, displaying skeletons of Elephant Bird and extinct giant lemurs. Whilst birding around the extensive gardens we may encounter Madagascar Pond-Heron, Frances's Goshawk, Malagasy Kingfisher, Crested Drongo, Madagascar Brush-Warbler, Red Fody and Madagascar White-eye. The prize sighting might be a pair of Madagascar Grebes, which can usually be found on one of the ponds.

Day 16The seldom-visited deciduous forests of western Madagascar are the haunt of the last few island endemics, which we will not have a chance to find during our main tour. Some of Madagascar's star birds are denizens of these mysterious forests, and we will search for the stunning Schlegel's Asity, White-breasted Mesite, Van Dam's Vanga and Coquerel's Coua. Wetlands are prevalent and support the last remaining populations of the almost extinct Madagascar Fish-eagle and equally endangered Bernier's Teal and Bernier's Sacred Ibis. The extension gives us the opportunity of finding these sought-after species, as well as a myriad of local mammals and reptiles.

Day 17 Today we will fly to Mahajunga on the north-west coast of Madagascar. After arriving in this sleepy town we will drive to Ampijoroa, a forest station situated in the extensive deciduous forests of the Ankarafantsika Special Reserve. Ampijoroa is famous as the home of World Wildlife Fund's Ploughshare Tortoise captive-breeding programme, and is an ideal base from which to search for the numerous endemic birds of the region. En route to the reserve we will scan roadside waters for Yellow-billed Stork, Purple, Striated and Squacco Herons and flocks of Black Egrets, which we will watch as they perform their bizarre "umbrella-feeding" routine, as well as striking Madagascar Jacanas strutting through lily-covered wetlands. We will stop off at Lac Amboromalandy to search for other waterbirds including Humblot's Heron, Madagascar Grebe, African Pygmy-goose and Allen's Gallinule. On arrival at the station we should encounter numerous "campsite residents," including Broad-billed Roller, Black Parrot, Crested Drongo, Madagascar Magpie-Robin, Sakalava Weaver, Madagascar Hoopoe, Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher, Madagascar Green Pigeon and Madagascar Turtle Dove. We will spend the afternoon birding along the edge of the adjacent Lac Ravelobe, where we hope to find the critically endangered Madagascar Fish-eagle, a pair of which is resident here. Wintering Sooty and Eleonora's Falcons may be seen hunting overhead, White-throated Rails favour the waterside vegetation and we may find noisy groups of Sickle-billed and Blue Vangas moving along the forest fringe. Ampijoroa is still poorly developed for eco-tourism so, in order to experience the unique birdlife of this remote area, we will stay in a comfortable tented camp for two nights and have our food prepared by camp staff. A definite advantage of this arrangement is our proximity to the wildlife: previously, the leader has encountered Coquerel's Sifaka and enjoyed wonderful birding right in the campsite. Meals taken with the background sounds of nocturnal lemurs and Torotoroka Scops-owls are sure to be some of the most memorable of our trip.

Day 18 We have a full day to explore the network of trails around Ampijoroa, in search of the many birds restricted to this region. Foremost amongst these are the secretive White-breasted Mesite and the jewel-like Schlegel's Asity, which gives one the impression of a miniature bird-of-paradise. We will also concentrate on finding the highly localised Van Dam's Vanga and Coquerel's Coua. Other birds we hope to see include Madagascar Ibis, Madagascar Buttonquail, Frances's Goshawk, Red-capped Coua (the nominate subspecies often considered specific from the forms seen earlier in the tour), Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher and Rufous, Hook-billed, White-headed, Chabert's and Red-tailed Vangas. No less than eight species of lemur occur in the vicinity of the camp and we will search for the comical Coquerel's Sifaka, Common Brown Lemur and the rare Mongoose Lemur during the day and Western Avahi (Woolly Lemur), Milne-Edward's Sportive, Fat-tailed Dwarf and Grey Mouse Lemurs after dark. If we are lucky we may also find the recently described Golden-brown Mouse Lemur, one of the world's smallest primates and only known from around Lac Ravelobe. Reptiles are also plentiful along the trails and we hope to see Giant Hog-nosed Snake as well as several smaller species (all harmless; amazingly, there are no venomous snakes in Madagascar), Oustalet's Chameleon (the world's largest chameleon species) and the aptly named Rhinoceros Chameleon.

Day 19 After a final day's birding, lemur-watching and photograph-taking around Ampijoroa, we will return by bus to Mahajunga for an overnight stay in a comfortable, air-conditioned beachside hotel renowned for its fine seafood. We will again search for waterbirds en route.

Day 20 An exciting morning excursion takes us, by motorised boat, up the Bombetoka Estuary into the Bestiboka Delta. This seldom-visited region is home to two of Madagascar's rarest and most endangered birds: Bernier's Teal and Bernier's Sacred Ibis. During an exploration of this remote area we found two pairs of teal and ten ibises. Other birds we may record on this journey are African Openbill, African Spoonbill (very rare in Madagascar), Madagascar Harrier-hawk, Saunders's Tern and Tylas Vanga. In the afternoon we fly back to Antananarivo for our final night.

Day 21 This morning we may have time to explore the capital of Madagascar and enjoy shopping for local handicrafts. Thereafter, we will depart for the airport for our return flight to London.

General Information The temperature will generally be warm to hot and rain may be experienced, despite the fact that we will be travelling during the dry season. Humidity can be high. The pace is easy, but the heat can be uncomfortable at times and there are some long walks. Some days we will split the birding into two sessions, with a break at the hotel in the middle of the day so we can relax. There are a number of health requirements and you must consult your GP in this respect. Insects are not a major problem. Accommodation varies from comfortable hotels with private facilities to two nights' camping.

Group Size Minimum number for tour to go ahead: 6; maximum group size: 16 with 2 leaders.

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