PARAGUAY Chaco Endemics 5–22 September 2008 5–22 September 2009 Leaders: Paul Smith and Vaughan Ashby

Paraguay is the most under-watched destination in South America. Split in half by the Rio Paraguay, it is a country of extremes. To the west is the dry, thorny expanse of the Chaco (arguably the continent's last unspoilt wilderness) and to the east is the lush, humid Orient, a mosaic of Atlantic forest and cerrado – two of the most rapidly disappearing habitats on the planet. This is a tour for the adventurous birder. With so few observers active in the field, every trip brings with it the very real possibility of new discoveries, whilst the compact nature of the country means that building a large and varied list is possible with relatively little time on the road. If you are looking to push the frontiers of birdwatching, Paraguay is as good a place as any to start. Our tours are led by Paul Smith, co-author of the forthcoming Field Guide to the Birds of Paraguay and Hugo del Castillo, co-author of the Annotated Checklist of the Birds of Paraguay.

Day 1 Flight from London to Asunción via Brazil, arriving in the morning. After showering and getting cleaned up at our hotel in Asunción, where we will be spending the night, we will begin the birding gently with a leisurely afternoon at the Botanic Gardens. Here we might expect Purple-throated Euphonia, Chalk-browed Mockingbird, Thrush-like Wren, Campo and Green-barred Flickers, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Red-crested Cardinal, Sayaca Tanager and Pearly-vented Tody-tyrant amongst numerous other species. There is a small dry forest reserve here where we have a chance of seeing Brown Capuchin and skulkers such as Barred Antshrike. Other species we'll be keeping an eye out for are White-barred Piculet, Grayish Saltator and, if we are lucky, Blue-crowned Trogon.

Day 2 Today we will depart early from Asunción, crossing the Rio Paraguay and entering the seasonally flooded palm savannas of the Low Chaco. We will bird the roadside pools here looking for waterbirds such as Jabiru, Southern Screamer, Plumbeous, Whistling, White-faced and Buff-necked Ibises, Black-collared Hawk, Maguari and Wood Storks and a whole host of heron species. The palm savannas are also an excellent place for Nanday Parakeet and the unusual Chaco form of Scaly-headed Parrot. Birding areas of marsh banana often brings good views of Scarlet-headed Blackbird and, with luck, Dinelli's Doradito and Least Bittern. We will stop for lunch at Pirahú to sample some of its nationally famous empanadas. As we proceed deeper into the Chaco we will notice the vegetation becoming gradually drier, thornier and more stunted. We arrive in the Mennonite colony of Filadelfia – the Chaco's largest town with a population of just 7000 – late in the afternoon. We will spend the night here and will have time to relax before the evening meal and then our night drive. Mammals are surprisingly co-operative in the Chaco and our night drives frequently turn up 10 or more species in a night. Possibilities include Three-banded Armadillo, Azara's and Crab-eating Foxes, Gray Brocket Deer, Geoffroy's, Little Spotted and Pampas Cats, Lowland Tapir, Coati, Capybara, Coypu, Crab-eating Raccoon, three species of peccary and even Puma and Jaguar. We will also, of course, be looking for nightbirds, not least Great Horned Owl, the Chaco endemic Chaco Owl, Ferruginous Pygmy-owl and Tropical Screech-owl, Scissor-tailed and Little Nightjars and Common Pauraque.

Day 3 On our first full day in the Dry Chaco we will visit the Campo Maria Nature Reserve, a huge salt lagoon that is a haven for migrating waterbirds. Time it right and we should see the arriving northern migrants mingling with the last of the winter waterfowl. Some Chilean Flamingos should still be around along with White-cheeked Pintail, Silver Teal, White-necked Stilt, Collared Plover, White-tufted and Silver Grebes, Ringed Teal, Rosybill and Coscoroba Swan, whilst the northern migrants usually include White-rumped, Stilt and Pectoral Sandpipers, both yellowlegs, Hudsonian Godwit and various others. Campo Maria regularly turns up new records for Paraguay, most recently Speckled and Blue-winged Teal and Yellow-billed Pintail - we will be checking the flocks out carefully! Diurnally active mammals are often encountered here, too - White-lipped Peccary, for example, is often seen going about its business. The surrounding scrub is home to Chaco endemic species like Cream-backed Woodpecker and Chaco Earthcreeper, whilst the near-threatened Greater Rhea is usually seen on the approach. We will return to Filadelfia for a filling meal before going out on our second night drive in search of any mammals/birds we may have missed the previous evening.

Days 4–5 The area around Filadelfia is known as the Cuenca Upper Yacaré Sur and is one of the Important Bird Areas in the Chaco. On our second and third days in the area we will be visiting more salt lagoons including Laguna Ganso (remarkably, a Dunlin turned up here in 2004, the first record for interior South America!). We will also be spending more and more time working the scrub in search of Chaco specialities and endemics such as Black-capped Warbling-finch, Stripe-backed Antbird, Greater Wagtail-tyrant, Short-billed Canastero and the sought-after Black-legged Seriema. Tinamous can be very co-operative in this area and there is a wealth of species - White-bellied and Spotted (Chaco) Nothuras and Brushland Tinamou being amongst the most frequently recorded. The gorgeous Many-colored Chacofinch is one of the most beautiful of the Chaco endemics and, fortunately, is plentiful in some areas. We will also look out for hordes of White-browed Blackbirds - males will be preparing to breed and we may be lucky enough to see a few practising their spectacular display flights!

Day 6–7 An early departure is called for as we head deep into the Chaco (almost to the Bolivian border) to the little-visited Parque Nacional Teniente Enciso. This reserve protects a large population of the Chaco Peccary – a species known only from fossil remains until it turned up alive and well in the Paraguayan Chaco in 1976! Mammals are often encountered during the day here; in addition to the peccary, Gray Brocket Deer, Chaco Mara and even Puma are seen with some regularity. Bird-wise this is our best shot at Quebracho Crested-tinamou, whilst we should see other Chaco endemics like Chaco Chachalaca, Great Rufous and Scimitar-billed Woodcreepers, Crested Hornero and Cinereous Tyrant here. Conditions allowing, we will also make the short trip to Parque Nacional Médanos del Chaco in search of Spot-winged Falconet and Crested Gallito. We may be in time to catch the last of the wintering Black-crested Finches (a charismatic little bird), whilst other species such as Ringed Warbling-finch (a potential split as Chaco Warbling-finch), Little Thornbird, Brown Cacholote, Spot-backed Puffbird and Blue-crowned Parakeet are also likely. On our night drives, Chaco Owl is regularly observed in this area as are large numbers of mammals, potentially including Jaguar and Giant Anteater.

Day 8 We will bird briefly after breakfast before heading back towards Asunción, again birding along the way. Laughing Falcon is a charismatic species often seen on telegraph poles, while it is not unusual to see the vulnerable Crowned Eagle. Numerous raptor species including Southern Caracara, American Kestrel, Savanna, Zone-tailed, Harris's, Roadside and Crane Hawks can be seen along the route. As usual we will be stopping at birding spots to try to clean up on the last of the Chaco birds, keeping a special lookout for the rare Chaco endemic Black-bodied Woodpecker. Besides the birding stops we will break up the journey with a visit to the Proyecto Tagua, a peccary breeding project where we can have a good look at the Chaco Peccary being bred for release into the wild. They also have examples of Collared and White-lipped Peccaries, giving us a chance to compare their respective characteristics and characters. Check out the bone-shuddering threat display of the White-lipped and be glad that there is a fence between us and him! The night will be spent in Asunción.

Day 9 Early next morning we will make a brief visit to the Bahía de Asunción for waterbirds. Nearctic waders, including internationally important numbers of the near-threatened Buff-breasted Sandpiper, visit here in their thousands during the southbound migration. Gray Monjita, Spectacled Tyrant, Warbling Doradito, South American Painted-snipe, Pale-breasted Spinetail and Gray-breasted Crake are amongst the more secretive inhabitants of the reedbeds, while on the water, Snail Kite, White-winged Coot, Spot-flanked Gallinule, Black Skimmer and Yellow-billed and Large-billed Terns can be expected. Nacunda Nighthawk roosts in numbers around here and this is another location that turns up more than its share of surprises – on a single day in July 2006, Bay-capped Wren-spinetail (new for Paraguay) and Bar-winged Cinclodes (5th country record) were found here. We'll head out in 4x4 vehicles east of Asunción for a brief stop at Arroyos and Esteros – a great spot for Long-tailed Reedfinch, Crested Doradito and the gorgeous but threatened Strange-tailed Tyrant. We'll then move on to the Paraguayan cerrado belt, stopping for lunch on the way and spending the night in a hotel in Santa Rosa del Aguaray (for large groups) or in the ranch house on the shores of the laguna, which has its own white-sand beach.

Days 10–11 We will spend two days exploring the cerrado at Estancia Laguna Blanca. With 14 globally threatened species in 2500 hectares, it is one of the country's most important sites. The near-threatened White-banded Tanager is relatively easy here, whilst Black-throated Saltator, White-rumped Tanager, Rusty-backed Antwren and White-rumped Monjita are restricted-range species in Paraguay which can be found without too much effort. Threatened cerrado specialities, such as Cock-tailed Tyrant, Sharp-tailed Grass-tyrant and Black-masked Finch, will be on our hit list, whilst the charismatic cerrado endemic Curl-crested Jay is one of three corvid species we can expect to see here. However, two species will be at the top of our hit list: the diminutive Lesser Nothura (this is the only known site for the species outside Brazil) and the endangered White-winged Nightjar (known to occur regularly at only three sites on Earth, two of which we will be visiting!). Night birding here is spectacular; in addition to the 'candicans' as it is known locally, Rufous, Scissor-tailed and Little Nightjars are possibilities, as is the bizarre Common Potoo. Maned Wolf is here too - it can be difficult to see but that doesn't mean we won't try to find it! There is some Atlantic forest at Laguna Blanca and, although it is in a sorry state, it still holds Helmeted Woodpecker. We'll spend a bit of time searching for this species and looking through other patches of Atlantic forest in the area to see what we can turn up. The rare Russet-winged Spadebill occurs in some places as do more frequently encountered Atlantic forest species such as Yellow Tyrannulet, Eared Pygmy-tyrant, Gray-bellied Spinetail, Eastern Sirystes, Greenish Schiffornis, Black-capped Antwren and Surucua and Black-throated Trogons.

Days 12–15 The Mbaracayú Biosphere Reserve has been declared by WWF as one of the 100 sites of greatest ecological importance on the planet. It is an extraordinary place with countless possibilities for birding. The area consists of a block of pristine Atlantic forest and an area of fantastic cerrado. We have three days to explore this reserve, spending time in both the forest and the cerrado. Cerrado birds that we will be especially searching for here are Helmeted Manakin and Rufous-winged Antshrike - neither occurs at Laguna Blanca. Lesser Seedfinch, Planalto Hermit, Streamer-tailed Tyrant, Toco Toucan and Burnished-buff Tanager are other species that we will look for. It is in the forest, though, where we will concentrate our efforts. Over 450 species have been recorded at the reserve, a phenomenal total for the 70000 ha site. We won't see all of them but we will be looking carefully for the Atlantic forest endemics, which include Bare-throated Bellbird (Paraguay's national bird), the highly endangered Black-fronted Piping-guan, Black-capped Screech-owl, Scale-throated Hermit, Yellow-fronted Woodpecker, Buff-bellied Puffbird, Rufous-capped Motmot, Saffron and Spot-billed Toucanets, Red-breasted Toucan, Rufous-capped Spinetail, Spot-backed Antshrike, Helmeted and Robust Woodpeckers, Ruby-crowned Tanager, Blackish-blue Seedeater, White-shouldered Fire-eye, Ochre-breasted Foliage-gleaner and many more. Non-endemic species of interest include Scaled Pigeon, Sharpbill and Bare-faced Currasow. Mammal-wise, Jaguar is present (though hard to see), as are Tapir and various peccary species. More likely are Azara's Agouti, Paca and small cats, which are sometimes seen on the forest tracks. Night birding brings the possibility of Rusty-barred and Black-banded Owls as well as another shot at White-winged Nightjar in the unlikely event that we missed it at Laguna Blanca.

Day 16 This morning will be spent birding at Mbaracayú to see if we can add a few more last-minute ticks. After a filling meal we'll depart for Asunción, as usual making birding stops if we see anything of interest along the way. We arrive in Asunción in the late afternoon/early evening for our final group dinner and a comfortable night's sleep at our hotel.

Day 17 There may be time for some sightseeing before boarding our flight back to the UK via Brazil.

Day 18 Arrival back in the UK.

General Information At this time of year expect the climate to be hot. In the Chaco it will be hot and dry, possibly with some hot, dry winds in the more remote areas of the High Chaco. Eastern Paraguay is hot and humid, with temperatures between 27–35°C most days, though at this time of year occasional cool days (down to about 16°C) are not uncommon and nights may be chilly. Sudden electrical storms are possible – it is best to prepare for all eventualities. There is no malaria in Paraguay but there are a number of special health requirements, so please consult your GP. A reasonable degree of fitness for walking is required and you should bring walking shoes. Accommodation will be in good quality hotels with en-suite facilities where these are available. Accommodation in the Chaco is basic but comfortable and in large dormitory-style rooms. Several of these rooms are available so it may be possible to arrange more private accommodation if we are the only group present. Hot water and hot meals, including asado (huge barbecues of grilled meat and a Paraguayan speciality), are available at all destinations.

Group size Minimum number for tour to go ahead: 2; maximum group size: 8 with 2 leaders.

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