UGANDA 17 September–2 October 2008 16 September–1 October 2008 Leaders: Bonifence Byamukama and Vaughan Ashby

At the crossroads of the East African plains and the West African forests, Uganda is one of the richest countries in Africa for birds. We visit the premier regions including the Impenetrable Forest at Bwindi, which holds several Albertine Rift endemic species. It is also a good area for Mountain Gorilla. We also visit papyrus beds to search for sought-after birds: the enigmatic Shoebill, Papyrus Gonolek and White-winged Warbler. This trip to ‘The Pearl of Africa’ will produce a long birdlist plus sightings of primates and other mammals.

Day 1 We take an evening flight to Entebbe in Uganda, where we arrive the following morning.

Day 2 An afternoon excursion to Entebbe Botanical Gardens adjacent to Lake Victoria, an area dominated by huge trees, some being festooned with hanging creepers and flowers. Raptors present include Gabar Goshawk, Lizard Buzzard and African Harrier-hawk. The larger trees attract Great Blue and Ross’s Turacos, and Black and White Casqued, Piping and Crowned Hornbills. Our main interest is the riverine trees, where we have a chance of Orange-tufted, Green-throated and Red-chested Sunbirds and a range of weavers, including Slender-billed, Orange, Northern Brown-throated, Jackson’s Golden-backed and Yellow-backed Weavers.

Day 3 Today we visit the Mabamba and its swamp, maze of channels and lagoons. The entrance road winds its way through areas of secondary forest and agricultural land, attracting Ayres’s Hawk-eagle, Madagascar Bee-eater, Red-headed Lovebird, Crowned and African Pied Hornbills, Black-necked and Weyn’s Weavers and Green-headed, Green, Red-chested, Collared, Marico and Scarlet-chested Sunbirds. The road ends at a papyrus reedbed. From hand-paddled boats we explore a maze of channels and mud flats for the majestic Shoebill, African Marsh-harrier, African Pygmy-goose, Black Crake, Allen’s Gallinule, African and, more rarely, Lesser Jacanas, Blue-breasted Bee-eater, Winding and Carruthers’s Cisticolas, Papyrus Gonolek and White-winged Warbler. Mammals are scarce in the swamp but we hope to see the endearing Spot-necked Otter. Later we transfer to Mbarabara for a two-night stay. Our journey takes us through agricultural land and huge areas of papyrus reedbeds. Telegraph wires attract Lilac-breasted Rollers, whilst roadside birds include Black-shouldered Kite and Long-crested Eagles.

Day 4 A full day exploring the delights of Lake Mburo National Park, an area of wetlands and Acacia forests. We enter through the village of Sanga, an exceptional area for birds. Common species include African Green-pigeon, White-browed Coucal, Grey-backed Fiscal, Greater Blue-eared and Rüppell’s Glossy-starlings and Copper Sunbird. A small marsh may harbour Black Crake and, nearby, we may find Brown-headed Parrot, Woodland Kingfisher and Black-lored Babbler. Grassy fields scattered with Acacia trees lure Senegal and the rare Brown-chested Lapwing, Bare-faced Go-away-bird, Eastern Grey Plantain-eater, African Moustached Warbler, Northern Crombec and White-winged Black Tit. In the park itself an exploration of tracks and reed-lined swamps may produce Dwarf Bittern, Yellow-billed Duck, Nubian Woodpecker, Yellow-breasted Apalis and Spot-flanked and Black-collared Barbets. At Nshara Gate a large seasonal marshland has African Openbill, Sacred Ibis, Wattled Lapwing, African Water Rail, Greater Painted-snipe, Three-banded Plover and Malachite Kingfisher. Further along the track, drier areas attract Red-necked Spurfowl, Crested and Coqui Francolins, Emerald-spotted Wood-dove, Red-faced, Winding and Croaking Cisticolas, Yellow-throated Longclaw and Golden-breasted Bunting. As dusk falls, we have a chance of the impressive Pennant-winged Nightjar hunting for insects. We may see Vervet Monkey, Burchell’s Zebra and Impala.

Day 5 We travel to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park straddling the border with Congo. Our journey takes us to Kabale and over highlands reaching almost 2500 metres. Specialities of this region include Augur Buzzard, White-headed Woodhoopoe, Black-crowned Waxbill, Thick-billed Seedeater and Chubb’s Cisticola. The last species sings in duets from exposed branches. We eventually reach Bwindi, a huge montane forest holding 23 of the 24 Albertine Rift endemics. Three nights at Buhoma tented camp.

Days 6–7 On one morning we have the option of tracking Mountain Gorillas or birding along the main track. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is exceptionally rich in forest species restricted to the Albertine Rift covering Uganda, Rwanda and Congo. Walking along forest trails is a wonderful natural experience with hundreds of colourful butterflies, streams and tumbling waterfalls. Bwindi offers some of the best forest birding in Africa. The campgrounds before the main track attract Black Sawwing, Petit’s Cuckoo-shrike, Black-and-white Shrike-flycatcher, African Blue Flycatcher, Mackinnon’s Fiscal, Lühder’s Bush-shrike, Mountain Greenbul, Black-billed Weaver, Variable Sunbird and Grey-crowned Negrofinch. The main track enters the forest proper as it passes under huge trees and areas of lichen-lined trunks. Another track takes us to the waterfall trail, a reliable area for Red-throated Alethe, Red-faced Woodland Warbler, Yellow-eyed Black-flycatcher and Kivu Ground-thrush. Other species recorded along the main track include Crested Guineafowl, Black and Cinnamon-breasted Bee-eaters, Bronze-naped Pigeon, Gabon and Elliot’s Woodpeckers, Red-fronted Antpecker, Yellow-throated, Yellow-rumped and Speckled Tinkerbirds, Grey-throated and Yellow-spotted Barbets, Black-faced Rufous Warbler, Uganda Woodland Warbler, Equatorial Akalat, White-tailed Crested-flycatcher, Sooty Flycatcher, Stuhlmann’s, Narrow-tailed and Waller’s Starlings, Slender-billed, Plain, Little, Shelley’s, Yellow-whiskered and Red-tailed Greenbuls, Green-throated Sunbird and Brown-capped Weaver. On another day we walk the Muzabajiro Loop Trail for Rufous-breasted Sparrowhawk, Cassin’s Hawk-eagle, Handsome Francolin, White-headed Woodhoopoe, Crowned Hornbill, Yellow-billed Barbet, African Hill Babbler, Forest Ground-thrush, Chestnut Wattle-eye, Narrow-tailed Starling, Strange Weaver, Red-headed Malimbe and White-collared Olive-back. We also have a chance of locating primates: L’Hoest’s Gentle and Red-tailed Monkeys and troops of Chimpanzees.

Day 8 We transfer to Queen Elizabeth National Park, birding en route. We will travel through the southern sector of the park, a wild area of savannah and forest. At Ishasha, a remote campground, we look for Black Cuckoo-shrike, Yellowbill, Cassin’s Flycatcher and African Firefinch. The road passes pools with Red-billed Duck, Hottentot Teal and Greater Painted-snipe. We will reach the Kazinga Channel, linking Lake George and Lake Edward, and our base is at Mweya Safari Lodge, an idyllic location set in its own grounds. Two-night stay at Mweya.

Day 9 We have a full day exploring Queen Elizabeth National Park. The hotel gardens have Grey-headed Kingfisher, Swamp Flycatcher, Black-headed Gonolek, Grey-capped Warbler, Slender-billed Weaver and Brimstone Canary. We start with an early game drive towards the famous Kasenyi Track, through grassland dotted with trees and nearby crater lakes. Our main aim is to locate African Lions and other mammals including Hartebeest, Water Buffalo, Ugandan Kob, Oribi, Waterbuck, Bushbuck and family groups of African Elephants. We should find reasonable numbers of Scaly Francolins, Red-necked Spurfowl, Senegal, Crowned and Wattled Lapwings, Harlequin Quails and Common Button-quails. Larks are numerous and include Rufous-naped, Flappet and the localised White-tailed Lark. Raptors may include Lappet-faced and White-backed Vultures, Martial Eagle, Banded and Brown Snake-eagles and Bateleur. Wet grassland may hold Broad-tailed and African Moustached Warblers, Trilling and Croaking Cisticolas, Marsh Tchagra and Fawn-breasted and Crimson-rumped Waxbills. Acacia trees are home to Black-headed Batis, Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike and Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrike. In the afternoon we embark on a boat trip down the Kazinga Channel. This is an incredible area for waterbirds allowing close views of Pink-backed Pelican, Saddle-billed Stork, Hamerkop, African Spoonbill, Yellow-billed Stork, Water Thick-knee, African Skimmer and over-summering Palearctic waders. After dinner we have a night drive along the airstrip searching for Temminck’s Courser, Gabon and Slender-tailed Nightjars and owls.

Day 10 Our destination is Fort Portal and the nearby Kibale Forest. Our main birding stop is Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary, which is run by local people for the benefit of the nearby village. Bigodi comprises agricultural land, papyrus and swamp forest. Specialist birding guides take us through several habitats along trails and a marshland boardwalk. The more open areas have African Goshawk, Black-and-white Casqued Hornbill, Blue-throated Roller, Great Blue Turaco, Yellow-billed, Double-toothed, Grey-throated and Hairy-breasted Barbets and Red-headed Malimbe. From the boardwalk we might see White-spotted Flufftail, Papyrus Gonolek, Snowy-crowned Robin-chat, White-winged Warbler, Blue-headed Coucal and Papyrus Canary. Weedy areas lure Red-faced Cisticola, Black-crowned Waxbill and White-collared Oliveback. Overnight stay at Fort Portal.

Day 11 After breakfast we head towards Masindi along a maintained dirt road. An agricultural area close to a small village offers us the chance of Speckle-breasted Woodpecker, Lesser Honeyguide, Brown-crowned and Black-headed Tchagras and Green-throated and Purple-banded Sunbirds. As we approach Masindi, forest patches may produce Grey Woodpecker, White Helmetshrike, Red-headed Lovebird and African Grey Parrot. Overnight at Masindi.

Day 12 We make a pre-dawn start in order to arrive at Budongo Forest and the Royal Mile, a pristine forest reserve. Before entering the forest we should see groups of White-thighed Hornbills. Our main interest is locating forest species either on the forest floor or in the giant trees. We have good chances of locating Dwarf Kingfisher, Grey Apalis, Forest Robin, Red-capped Robin-chat and Red-crested Malimbe. Rarer species include Nathan’s Francolin and isolated populations of Yellow-footed Flycatcher and Puvel’s Illadopsis. Later in the morning a stop at a forest section may produce the highly localised Chocolate-backed Kingfisher. As we pass through the forest we find colonies of Yellow-backed and Vieillot’s Black Weavers, Black-and-white Casqued Hornbills and primates including Olive Baboon. We eventually drop down into the Rift Valley with views of Lake Albert and the Congo. The habitat changes and we may locate Hamerkop, Hadada Ibis, Brown and Banded Snake-eagles, White-bellied Go-away-bird, Broad-billed Roller, Red-winged Grey Warbler and Brown-throated Wattle-eye. Reaching the Nile, we come across Pied Kingfishers, Wire-tailed Swallows and Black and White-headed Sawwings. At Paraa we take a ferry across the Victoria Nile for a three-night stay at Paraa Safari Lodge.

Day 13 Today we cruise up the Victoria and Albert Nile towards Lake Albert itself, a haven for waterbirds. We should record Goliath and Purple Herons, Saddle-billed Stork, African Openbill, Long-toed Lapwing, Senegal Thick-knee and Blue-breasted Bee-eater. Riverside banks and trees attract colourful Northern Carmine, Swallow-tailed and Madagascar Bee-eaters. At lunchtime we visit a safari camp adjacent to the river where garden birds include African Pygmy Kingfisher, Cardinal Woodpecker, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Yellow-throated Greenbul and Beautiful Sunbird. The river itself offers further opportunities to search for Shoebill and Goliath Heron. Nearby thorn savanna holds Grey Kestrel, Vinaceous Dove, Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike and Western Violet-backed Sunbird. Seedeaters can be numerous with Black-rumped, Fawn-breasted and Black-faced Waxbills and Brown Twinspot present. Mammals occurring at Murchison include Giraffe, Hartebeest, Oribi, Bushbuck, Waterbuck and up to four species of mongoose. The Nile itself has healthy populations of Nile Crocodile and Hippopotamus.

Day 14 A whole day exploring the delights of Murchison with its abundant bird and mammal life. Common birds around the hotel include Rüppell’s Glossy Starling, Violet-backed Starling, African Grey Hornbill and White-bellied Go-away-bird. Travelling along dirt tracks provides us with close views of Crested and Heuglin’s Francolins, Black-bellied Bustard, Little Bee-eater, Piapiac and Flappet Lark, whilst the taller trees attract Striped Kingfisher, Black Scimitarbill, Black-billed Barbet, White-breasted Cuckoo-shrike, Bronze-tailed Starling and Speckle-fronted Weaver. Red-necked Falcons and parties of wandering Abyssinian Ground Hornbills prefer areas of palms. Stunted bushes have the attractive Silverbird and grassy areas near the river host Grey Crowned Crane, Northern Carmine Bee-eater, Black-headed Lapwing, Spotted Mourning Thrush and Red-billed and Bar-breasted Firefinches. In the afternoon we cross the river to visit the top of Murchison waterfall. The main track is good for Sooty Chat and Yellow-mantled Widowbird. The Nile at Murchison Falls is forced into a narrow gully before plunging down into a section of the Victoria Nile. Rocky outcrops attract Rock Pratincole, African Pied Wagtail and mixed flocks of White-headed Sawwings, Horus Swifts and Rufous-breasted Swallows. A nearby outlook is reliable for Palm-nut Vultures and African Harrier-hawks. Several trails run through the area that hold Heuglin’s Robin-chat and Yellow-throated Leaflove. As dusk approaches, thousands of bats leave their daytime roost, making easy pickings for Bat Hawks and Wahlberg’s Eagles. By the time we return to Paraa nocturnal birds will start to become active: these include Verreaux’s Eagle Owl and Plain, Long-tailed and Pennant-winged Nightjars.

Day 15 After breakfast we travel back to Kampala via Masindi. If time permits, we can visit the forest reserve of Mabira near the capital. Overnight flight from Entebbe.

Day 16 Arrival back in the UK.

General Information The climate is generally hot. Accommodation standards are very good in Kampala, Murchison and Queen Elizabeth National Park and clean and comfortable in Mbarabara, Masindi and Fort Portal, with en-suite in all rooms. In Bwindi there will be double or single tents with each one having its own shower and chemical toilet. Food is of European standard in all locations except for Bwindi and Mbarabara where it will be African-based. Transport is by minibus or four-wheel drive and the road conditions are reasonable. There are special health requirements. Visas are required. Only a moderate degree of fitness is needed except for the optional Mountain Gorilla excursion which is more strenuous. Photographic opportunities are excellent.

Group size Minimum number for tour to go ahead: 6; maximum group size: 12 with 2 leaders.

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